or mostly known by western people as CCCP, The Union of Soviet Socialist Republics, can still be found. As I went in to the town Tiraspol, this sign welcomed me to the town.

The whole sign looks like this:

But I’m getting ahead of things, this day was no ordinary day.

First I wanted to fill up my bike but I couldn’ t find any unleaded petrol. I stopped at four stations before the border but no one could insure me the petrol was unleaded. I got lucky at the fifth place though. I didn’t want to go in to Transnistria with an empty tank.

Shortly after that i reached the border and it was no problem leaving the Ukraine. I’m getting the hang on it so I had all my papers in the right order. As always I overtook all the car queing up. Than a short ride in no mans land and I reached the Transnistrian border control. The first thing I noticed was the signs with a over-crossed camera. So I’m sorry, I have no photos of the procedure passing the border.

I know the drill so I first went to passport control. The first officer, with two stars, looked at me and asked me to follow him in to a special room. Hmm, this is new, I thought.

First question, are you a police man or military? No I answered, I’m a teacher from Sweden. I didn’t know what skolintendent is in english. It turned out to be a very good answer. He than said in poor english, this no Moldava, this Transnistria, you can not pass. Go back 200 km north and pass Maldava. I was not prepared for this, it would mean going back in to Ukraine loosing a lot of time. Then I thought; no, I’ll have to try something. I started to explain me being a Swedish history teacher (I know, a lie, but quite close to the truth 😉 ) going to… Then he stopped me, asked me to wait. He called another officer, this one with four stars. And he spook very good english. So I explained me being a history teacher following the steps of the Swedish king Charles the twelfth. I would just have come from Poltava and now I wanted to go to Bender. I want to be able to tell my pupils how it looks now a days. The officer shine up and understood, he actually know the story. He explained for the two-star officer to go on and let me in. Then he left. Some paper was written and the officer said, you have souvenir for me? I tried  not to understand but he was insistent. I first tried with a Selma, a Swedish 20 kr-bill, worth about $ 3. He liked that but it wasn’t enough. I had to give him some more, a $ 20 dollar bill did the trick. I have never seen a bill slipping away in to a mans pocket that fast.

Then I had to go to migration control, that was fast and finally customs. This was a bit more tricky. And they charged me $ 15 for the inspection. Anyway, I passed, it only took two hours. So I thought. After driving 500 m I was stopped by the military. Two very nice soldiers were impressed by the bike. They had to inspect it and was asking for alcohol or cigarets, but I had none. But then I remembered Belerus money works nowhere outside Belarus except for Moldava. I had about $ 5 i Belarus rubels and gave it to the soldier, he was happy and waved me off.

Another 500 meter and a new stop, this time the police. I don’t know why, but they checked my driving licence. This time I didn’t have to give away any “souvenirs”. Now I was in Transnistria.

I didn’t want to have any more contact with the police or any other officials so I really watched my speed and driving. But for no use. After passing city border of Tirasol a very kind police man waved with his stick, asking me to pull over. I didn’t no wy, I was travelling behind a truck doing no more than 45 km/h. The policemen showed me his radar gun showing 73 km/h. Big smile on my face, and on his. Ok, how much, I asked. He took out his book showing the speeding fees. 10 – 20 km/h to fast would cost me $ 10. Ok, I said, gave him the money, and again, it disappeared very fast. I asked if I could take a photo, no problem, he just smiled.

I wanted him to point the laser gun at me, but i hid it behind his back instead.

Then I drew through the town and it was like a drive through an old communist town, I think. First you have the square for the parade:

Then I found the Lenin statue;

and a sign showing some politicians (?) in front of the Kreml in Moscow.

On my way out of this town, I suddenly realize, I’m driving in the wrong direction. My Garmin maps has only “main roads” of Moldava. As I drew around in tha town I missed some roads. It took me half an hour to get back on track. Now towards Bender.

After 15 minutes I crossed the bridge before Bender and can see the fortress and the plains where King Charles made camp back in the 18:th century. Driving over the bridge I missed taking a picture. This turned out to be a big mistake, I wouldn’t get another chance. On the other side, the bridge is guarded by troops and no photographing is allowed. The whole fortress area is closed to public, as far as I can tell. I drew around trying to find an opening and some police officers are getting more and more interested in me. Of course I had to pull over. This time I really wonder what they want, they have no radar gun. “Licence and registration”. No problem, by this time I have them very handy. Then he asked; do you have a first aid-kit and a fire extinguisher? Perhaps that’s the law here, how would I know. Anyway, I have a very fine first aid-kit but no fire extinguisher. Improvise I thought, I have an aluminum water bottle mounted on one of the panniers. Showed the officer and said swedish special extinguisher. He said ok and I could go on. I’m glad he never checked the bottle, it was empty.

I didn’t get any picture, so I’ll borrow one from the web showing the Bender fortress.

Shortly after Bender it the time for some border crossing again. This time leaving Transnistra going in to Moldova. Getting out was no problem, showing some paper, opening the panniers (for the first time) and answering some questions and I could go. Then it was time for Moldova Bender Border Check-point. For the first time I met a very friendly officer and it all went very smooth. I still had to pay for something but that was done in a bank with a lot of papers with stamps. And I got a receipt. Another 50 km and I passed the city limit of Chişinău.

Because of all the fuss with the border crossing, I’ve decided to spend the night there. It was tree o’clock and I was very thirsty and needed something to eat. Coming in to a new city it can be hard to find a suitable place for safe parking. I also didn’t want to keep all may gear on, it was 32 degrees C. What to do? Go to Mc Donalds and park on the sidewalk right in front af the restaurants. No problem, even the police officer showing up gave me thumbs up.

Then I searched for a hotel, I was willing to pay a bit more this time to get safe parking and AC. Found the Jazz Hotel wich offered both. And a free upgrade to a big room. 60 €. This is luxury comparing to all my other nights so far. I even got my laundry done, almost for free, two € is a fine price. And a fast Internet access in the room. More about this town later.