Getting around
This is more a travelling and planing blog so if you are looking for my daily life, you’ll have to look somewhere else :)Archive for 2010 Crossing Bay of Bengal
Heading out on the ocean to cross the Bay of Bengal – part two
Me at the helm
Before we set off Lars had a security briefing together with us. We learned how to use all the necessary equipment and where they all are stored away. Very important is to hook on to the safety line running along deck. This was only necessary for me two times. One night in quite hard wind and rain we had to take down the main sail. It was actually no problem and felt very secure due to the safety percussions made before. But I can imagine it’s a lot harder in really hard weather. Luckily, we didn’t have that.
Lars, pointing out the impotence of sailing
On the first night, we had fantastic bioluminescence (swedish mareld), the water glow like fire. It followed us the whole way to Thailand but was never that strong again.
The one thing you first run out of on the ocean is fresh fruits and vegetables. We had brought along quite much but the heat and moisture won at last making all fresh thing smell a bit odd and we had to turn to canned goods.
Fruit and vegetables storage
This trip was a great time for reading, this morning I finished “Hundraåringen som hoppade ut ur fönstret och försvann”. Night time, on watch, I was listening to Hypnotisören by Lars Keppler. At the end of the trip I had finished four more books.
Dolphines playing?
On the second day Dolphins visited us for the first of many times. Funny how they enjoy to play around the boat and kind of lead the way as they jump close to the bow.
Dolphines at the bow, Andes taking a photo
This day we still had a very confused sea and I wasn’t feeling that good. Strangely though, I never got seasick in the night, perhaps concentrating on the work made me forget about it. Unfortunately the wind direction was about to change. On the third day we still could do some nice sailing but the wind got weaker and weaker and we had to, as Lars says, turn on the iron genua. The engine was to become our main forward force from now on. The waves changed and I didn’t get sea-sick any more. Instead of rolling from port to starboard Jennifer more went up and down the waves. But some time the sea was like in the Swedish archipelago, small waves and calm. We then suddenly had a free rider, a flying fish.
Flying fish
All circum navigators big nightmares is to hit something. Most of all they fear containers. There are plenty of containers drifting in the ocean because cargo ship dropped them accidentally in hard weather or so.
One giant container ship, they can carry thousand of containers.
The problem is that they float for quite a while. Other things you might hit are trees, whales (if you have a very fast sailing boat) or an oil barrow. We missed this one by 50 m. It wouldn’t have damaged Jennifer but probably made some noise and scratches.
A floating oil barrow – not something you want ta have close contact with
The days and nights with watches and off duty tine went on and suddenly a week had passed. Andes and I made a bet about what time we would arrive in Phuket. A lot of the time we were looking at the GPS which constantly recalculated the ETA, estimated time of arrival. One day with much head wind it said sixth of december. With less wind it was the fifth. You can easily understand, I think, why this was so, we were all longing for land and to use our legs. Just imaging yourself not walking more than perhaps 30 m a day for ten days. Some people even got problem with their bottoms sitting so much.
One the eights morning I sighted land again, the Nicobar Island. Just at the horizon but it felt good, I mean how else can you be sure of that all the electronic equipment was correct? For all that I know, we could have been sailing towards Australia, the ocean looks the same. Nicobar Island is forbidden land for all non-Indian citizens, we think it’s some kind of military base.
Lars at the VHF-radio
In the middle of being alone out there an oil tanker called us up on the VHF radio. The just wanted to chat a bit. Very nice, it was the first live-voice except us three for a long time. After ending the call we were called up by two other boats. What a big family.
A big family it was at the beginning. We were sailing along the main trade route; Malacka strait – Suez channel with all the asian goods for Europe. We had large commercial ships either overtaking us or meeting us the whole time. As Jennifer has AES and radar this was no problem. They made way for us when they had to. Quite impressive to se a 350 000 ton oil tanker change course to make way for 17 ton of Jennifer.
The bow falling from several meters hight into the ocean
The last two days we left the trade route and headed for Phuket. Now suddenly the wind built up but still was coming head on. We had waves in hight of 4 meters and Jennifer was again more like a roller coaster. We used the engine, as a matter of fact, I think the engine was on for the last four days.
Can you see land?
Around noon the tenth day we saw Thailand! What a joy. It really felt special. I kind of got a feeling for distances. You never get this feeling by using any other vehicles, especially aeroplanes. Sailing in average 5 knots is like jogging. You have enough time to experience the differences.
Lars looking at Thailand
Jennifer had taken us to Thailand and we were all very eager to go a shore. Andes was talking about a cool beer and I wanted to find a hotel. I was going to disembark directly. I didn’t feel to sad leaving my bunk. Don’t misunderstand me, it is very confortable with a private toilet and shower. But if you know my “size” you’ll know why I wanted a normal bed.
My bunk for eleven days, ten at high sea
Unfortunately the dingey was broken but we had no other. We all sat in this small boat, very close to the surface to get from Jennifer to the pier. It all went well but the immigration office was closed. Sigh, but we went around the small village and very soon sat in a restaurant with nice Thai food and plenty to drink.
The lighthouse bar and restaurant
This place also had some rooms. They were very comfortable and I decided to disembark at once to have a bit more comfort. Later that evening I had a shower of the century. Before that I had to get my bags from Jennifer. And that in a broken dingey – no good.
The pier at night
On the way out on the pier I was able to convince a gay to give us a lift in his small motor boat. Convince? Well money talks. Anyway, he safely brought me back with all my bags and that was my last stay on Jennifer for this time. I would meet up with Lars and Andes the following morning to do the clearance.
At the immigration
Of course the immigration didn’t open as it says on the door. We had to wait. I know this from other trips I made so I suggested we go over to the hotel for breakfast. But Lars got hold on a place for Jennifer at a Marina and wanted to get there as fast as possible so we waited by the door. Eventually the staff came along but we had to pay some extra charges because it was a holiday. It was the day AFTER the kings birthday. Customs was no problem and next was immigration. We were first in line and as we sat down at the desk I noticed a sign saying that people leaving Thailand in a different way than arriving has to pay 20 000 bht fond. (approx. $ 700). After it’s confirmed that the person has left the country the skipper then would get the money back. I explained the situation and the officer fully understood. He just nodded. After a while he asked med to follow him then I realized it was time for a new souvenir, you know what I mean if you read about my bike-trips. He took me to the room next door and said that we (Andes and I) would get the normal 30 day visa, no problem. He would make an exception for 1 000 bht each. I paid him off as i use to do, unscrupulous as I am.
Now I’ve changed hotel. I’m at the Karon beach. Here is everything very Swedish, with Swedish newspaper, signs, menues etc . I already ordered a tailor made tuxedo and will do an island speed boat trip before I go back on thursday. There is not much of interest for me to tell so I’ll sign of here. By the way, it’s very warm and confortabel here but it rains a lot.
See you all, wherever you are.
In a TucTuc in Sri Lanka
Oh yes, I almost forgot, I won the bet and Andes bought me a beer 🙂
Heading out on the ocean to cross the Bay of Bengal – part one
Lars at the helm with Galle Fort in the back
It took more time than planned to clear out of Galle. Again the agent didn’t do a proper work. First at one PM we let go of the mooring. What a feeling, I would not see land for the next period of eight days or so, depending on how close we would pass the Nicobar Island. The watches started at 3 PM and I took the first. From now on I would never be able to sleep for more than 5 and a half hour in one piece. As we were three we had to sit on watch three hours and be off duty for six hour. I have never been so fixed on eight strokes (midnight, 3 AM, 6 AM and so on) in my life. It was not so hard in the beginning, everything was new. After some days it started to be a routine but at the end it was a bit frustrating. Tha watch from 3 AM to 6 AM was by far the hardest, at the end I was close to falling a sleep. Luckey that never happened at night, but I can admit, daytime I took a nap here and there.
On the way out of Galla harbour
Ahaed of us laid 1 100 NM of Indian Ocean and Lars planned about 110 NM a day making the trip to last ten days. The wind was coming from behind and everything was easy. We set sail, wing on wing with the jib and genua on each side. Very comfortable making six to eight knots. Big swells coming in from behind making the sea confused and I got a bit seasick. I actually thought I would be because I’ve been stricken before in this kind of waves. It was not so bad, I managed to do all my duties – almost. Andes was kind helping me out in the galley with the wash up.
Fish market on the Indian Ocean
As we were passing the southern tip of Sri Lanka many fishing boats approached us. Either they wanted to sell fish or to get alcohol or cigarettes. They were quite funny but left with unfinished business as we had everything we needed and lacked cigarettes and alcoholic beverages to spare.
Alcohol or cigarettes?
Now, for the first time darkness started to lower on Jennifer. Then lighthouse on the most southern tip of Sri Lanka spread its light over the ocean and I was really looking forward to a clear sky with lots of stars.
A flash from the lighthouse at the most southern point of Sri Lanka
The moon rose around ten PM making the sea visible again. unfortunately the sky wasn’t clear in the first nights. On the contrary, every evening the first tree nights we had heavy rain, really heavy. But it was still quite hot. On the whole trip I never put on anything more than short trousers and a t-shirt. Very seldom I put on my shoes, and if, just if I had to work on deck. It’s the tropics and we were sailing on the 6th latitude close to the equator.
Rain cloud’s forming at the horizon
Embarking Jennifer
A Sri Lankan officer
The local agent, who is supposed to fix everything with customs and so didn’t do a proper work. It took Andes and me more than two-hour to pass everything. But they still were very friendly; and I was allowed to take this photo of the military personal handling our papers. It was a very strange feeling sitting in his office. We were placed at the opposite wall in the room some 3 meters away from him. The agent went crazy fixing everything for the officer, putting all papers in front of him, picking up the right stamps and finally placing the documents in som kind af strange order. The officer just nodded and didn’t lift a finger, he didn’t even sign anything. It was a good show. But as I asked if I could take a photo, he put on his cap and stood up, I thought he would salute me.
Gally of Jennifer
Then, for the first time I got to see S/Y Jennifer. I got one of the aft cabins, witch was very fine with me. The bunk is wider so I can stretch out diagonally.
Lars picking out bananas
After settling in we all went to the town to get all the food for the trip. As you can see, we bought bananas by the bunch. They were green because we would keep then for a week on the boat. We had to go to the back to find some really green ones.
Galle market
Due to heavy rain we couldn’t get to Galle for supper, instead we made some nice chicken on the boat. We were still four people, but Antti was going to embark in the morning, He wanted to dive more instead of a ten day trip to Thailand. Therefore we were only going to be three on the journey to Phuket, Lars, Andes and me. More of that in the following post.
Getting down to Galle
Me and Andes at the Railway station
This morning I met Andres, an other Swedish guy who was going to sail with Jennifer. We had breakfast together before we took a taxi to Colombo Fort Railway Station. We got two second class tickets and was hoping that the train wouldn’t be too crowded.
Colombo Fort Railway Station
On the platform we made several contacts with local people, they are very friendly in Sri Lanka. They helped us on to the train and we got some nice seats.
Second class wagon
The wagons had poor standard and all windows AND doors were opened the whole time.
Open door when travelling
Andes and I just had to make a typical photo, hanging out of the train.
Me loooking out of the door
It’s rather strange how they dry their laundry here, laying on the ground next to the tracks.
Laundry
In Galle we took a taxi to the military harbour to meet up with Lars, skipper of Jennifer.
Galle railway station
Ice anyone?
This biker I stumbled across on the market. He is delivering ice. Lots of people put their hands on the cubes; I hope they weren’t used to cool down drinks…
Colombo tour
Colombo Town Hall
As I opened my eyes this morning, the thunderstorms were gone and the sun was shining, almost. Lots of cloud still are spread out over the sky but that was ok, I prefer that kind of weather when doing city sightseeing. Today Colombo was on.
I started of as I usually do in new cities, by walking. I aimed for the Town Hall. It took about 30 minutes to go there, passing lots of busy streets with motorcycles, tuctuc and old Leyland buses. All over the city, I could see signs and left over’s from the Colonial time. Beside the left side traffic and the English signs there are churches, pictures of former Queen Victoria and, in my hotel, the first Car of Prince Philip.
Mosque
Queen Victoria founded a garden here, and I thought it would be a nice walk, instead of the very busy streets. In the garden I met a gardener who was friendly and soon turned into my personal guide for the day.
My gardener and guide in front of at 1 500-year-old tree
In the garden I could see all the famous trees and flowers of Asia. The gardener also let me smell on all the typical spices, taste fresh chilli (hot) and fruits (sweet).
Me in front af a fan palm
He also showed me the flying foxes. Big bats, over one meter in wingspan.
Not flying flying foxes
They are nocturnal but he scared some of them so that I could take a picture of a flying flying fox.
A flying flying fox
I find one similarity to Mauritius, churches, mosques and Buddha temples lies very close to each other. I don’t know if the Sri Lanka religious people have the same understanding for each other as they do on Mauritius, but I could easily hear the bells together with the prayer calling as I visited the temple. My gardener also showed me the temple with all the different statues of all kind of goods .
Buddha
I tried to ask my guide about the Tamil Tigers, but he wouldn’t say anything. An infected subject I think.
Buddha statues
After seeing the temple I took a tuctuc to the railway station to buy tickets for the trip to Galle tomorrow. But it wasn’t possible to buy tickets in advance; I would have to get them the same day.
Me in a Tuc Tuc
At least I found a nice market close to the station, a very lively on with people wanting to sell me everything. I’m not very fond of that so I left on another tuctuc back to the hotel and the swimming pool.
Colombo Fort Railway Station
They are repainting the hotel and some parts are covered by constructions pipes. But there are no wood to walk on. The people just climb on the pipes, without any safety ropes. Makes me think about the forthcoming health inspection on my work. Swedish health inspectors could do some good work, outside of Sweden 😉
Will you catch me?
The thunderstorms are back making it almost impossible to leave the hotel. I would need a scuba set to walk Luckily for me, the in-house restaurant is great, and not very expensive. I now sit in my room watching CNN and listening to the Indian Ocean, some great ways are rolling in.
In Sri Lanka
Yesterday evening (local time) I arrived in Colombo. The flight from London was ok, I got a nice seat, as matter a fact I had four seats 🙂 No problem sleeping. Today I will try to see a bit of Colombo.
I’m staying at the Galle Face Hotel, an old (1864) colonial Hotel with a very distinguished guest list. Ocean view, but no sun, It’s still rain season here. Tomorrow I will meet up with Andes to tak a train some 80 km down to Galle where we will embark Jennifer.
Arlanda airport
Last minute in Sweden using the Internet. I must say I have never seen the airport this empety. Everything went so smoothly that I have to wait at the gate for an hour. Next time will be in London.
Last preperations
In about 24 hours my flight for Colombo leaves. On monday afternoon, local time, I will land in Colombo, Sri Lanka. The weather forecast still predicts a lot of rain, but that’s ok, it’s still about 25 to 30 degrees C. I will stay in Colombo until Wednesday to see tha town and it’s surroundings.
Together with Andes, one of the other paying crew-member we will take the train down to Galle and embark on Jennifer. Jennifer has already arrived in Galle.
On Friday we will set off for Phuket. It will probably take us 8 – 10 days.
Getting around 