Getting around
This is more a travelling and planing blog so if you are looking for my daily life, you’ll have to look somewhere else :)The story of Gamlasvenskby
I forgot to put in this picture about the story of Gamlasvenskby.
Click on the picture to make it bigger and readable.
And the stone with the name of the deported one who never came back.
First impression of Crimea
It was an easy drive down to Crimea. I have forsaken the plans to go there via the peninsula like part in the east. I was told that it could be partly flooded. I really don’t think so, but I don’t want to spend an extra day trying. So I went straight to Simferopol, the capital of Crimea.
Crimea has a special status, that differs from the rest of the Ukrainian provinces (called Oblast). Crimea is more autonomous. They even have a controled gate as you enter.
I stopped in Simferopol because it was a nice distance from Gammalsvenskby. I knew I would arrive late, so I didn’t want to go the whole way down to the coast. That I want to explore in full day light. But this town was a positive experience. I think the nice weather has a bit to do with it. As I walked out this evening it was still 28 degrees 🙂
Gammalsvenskby
The visit at Gammalsvenskby today was a highlight for the whole trip so far. I had no more expectation than to see the sign and the church. Anything else would just be luck. After the short stop at the Cossack island I went on my way down. I programmed my gps to avoid the large roads this time. I wanted to see a bit of the countryside. It was a beautiful ride but now I see that the infrastructure beside the larger roads is way behind. It will probably take for ages before Ukraine can get to the roads in the villages. So I once again was happy that my bike handles bad roads very nicely. Much better than all the Ladas I overtook the whole time.
Gammalsvenskby is located next to the river and is actually a part of the village Zmiyivka. The same thing that happened to the Swedish settlement also happened to a German one. Therefore there are different languages at the first sign.
Former Svenska kyrkan in the village. Notice the tow towers, one protestant and one orthodox.
My gps hasen’t even got the small roads the whole way down to the church. But I had got the coordinates from Google Earth so I could put in a waypoint even if there were no roads.
As I arrived at the church, there was no one around. So I strolled around a bit in the yard and took some pictures. After a while; there came a boy who took this photo of me.
The Norberg family
Then I asked a man next door. I knew from different websites that some Swedish relative families’ lives closed by the church. He was not one of them, but he understood what I wanted. Unfortunately no one of the oldest generation, those who speak ancient Swedish was there today.
I was instead invited in to the family Norberg. So I met Viktor and Anna. Viktor speaks a little Swedish and understand even more. Anna don’t want to speak, but understands some. Also their son speaks and understands a bit Swedish.
Preparing for dinner
From now on this will be a moment I will remember for my whole life. The joy and hospitality the embraced me was stunning. At once the brought out a lot of photos and started to tell me all about their family, their visit to Sweden some years ago and what they are doing today. After a while Viktor says, “mat, du måste ha mat”. I really hadn’t planned that, it was just four o’clock. But I couldn’t turn down their offer. Ravioli was served a bit later.
Sitting in the south of the Ukraine, eating a very simple, but good dinner, together with people I just met, and speaking Swedish, that was memorable.
I got this movie from the site for Gammalsvenskby. It shows the oldest generation speaking old Swedish.
After more than an hour it was time for me to leave. I gladly paid for the dinner; I know they are poor people. Then I saw Viktor holding a paper with names and number on. I understood, it was telephone number to his relatives in Sweden. Of course, I handed over my phone to him and helped him dial. The first didn’t answer. But the second number was successful. And Viktor was so happy. That made my day!
My mind was full of thoughts as I left.
Cossack island Khortytsya
Safe parking!
This morning I allowed my self a slow start. I left the hotel first at ten or so. My plan was to visit Khortytsya before I started my journey to Gammalsvenskby.
Cossack hills
Khortytsya has all potential to be a real tourist magnet, but it still very unexplored. I didn’t stay, I was eager to get to Gammelsvenksby.
Nightlife in Zaporizhzhya
It is late, I should go to sleep, but I have to write this. I arrived safely in Zaporizhzhya. After reading Lonely Planet about the city I decided to stay at Intourist Hotel. A bit more expensive, but with nice beds. And my back needed a nice bed after the ride today. From Poltava it was all old, but still nice, roads. But they were not even. My suspension had to work a lot. So my back needs a good bed.
I had no planes for the evening; tomorrow I will visit the Cossack island. So I asked in the reception what to do. They suggested the in-house Strip Club where I could find ladies who would accomplish me, if I wanted. Hmm, this is starting to look like Minsk last year. Thank you, but no thank you. Any other place I asked?
– Well you could go to “Banana”. It’s a normal bar/nightclub with nice music. Take a cab.
So I did, but I was too early, the place was empty. So I went a cross the street and had a pizza.. At eleven the music started playing, very nice actually, it was very danceable. But no one would dance.
Earlier I had spoken to the boss. She explained that it will be a circus show later. So I wanted, watching people and haw they behave. Very interesting. First of all, if you want to make an impression in a nightclub, as a man, wear a T-shirt, one size to small, saying USSR – Macho. Don’t forget to but on your bathing slippers (Flip flop in Swedish). Then you are well dressed. What kind of trousers doesn’t seam to matter.
For the ladies it’s the contrary. They dress up like nothing I’ve seen before. But you should have long legs. If you haven’t, put on as high heels as you can. My former dance partners had high heels, because I’m so tall. But nothing like this. I was impressed how well they could dance in those high heels.
After a while the circus show started. A couple made two different number with rings and fire. Not very impressive but ok. Then the music started and many people started to dance. Yes, I thought. After 10 minutes two clowns appear. The music stops and the start to play games with the audience. Like limbo and who can eat as many candy-bars as possible. I’m not used to that in a night club for adults.
But ok, why not I thought. Then some girls started to flirt/hit on me. I already knew where it would go, the needed a sponsor for their drinks. They spoke quite good English so I went along; it’s always nice to talk to local people. And you wouldn’t believe what they did normally. It was their day of from the Strip Club at my hotel.
Almost every woman smoked in this place. I don’t like that; I really like the ban of cigarettes in public places as we have it in Sweden. As the girls wanted me to pay for their smoke I explained in a very dry Swedish way what I think about that and that they would have to pay for those them self. Suddenly I wasn’t so interesting any more. But I got one dance, and it was very nice, I think she wasn’t prepared that I could dance.
I had one drink for my self. A vodka Redbull. I usually drink that in Stockholm as well. But I didn’t realize how much vodka the put in one here. About ten cl! I definitely, didn’t need another one. I think I was the first in that bar ever – ordering water! The barkeeper had to ask me twice.
The cab was waiting outside, so it was easy to get home. As the driver took a sip out the vodka bottle, I cheered to hem Nastrovja ( I hope I spelled it correctly). He smiled and drove a bit faster
So I think it’s wonderful, that the world differs from place to place. But some times it’s hard to adept.
The only thing I regret is not bringing my camera!
Shelter at Poltava
Not for Russian bullets or sables, but for once again heavy rain. But the drive here was all full of sunshine and the sky this morning was totally clear. So I saw the Ukrainian flag all the time, the yellow fields and over it a clear blue sky.
In front of the sign. Now you can learn some Cyrillic!
But now it’s raining cats and dogs. I hope it’s just a short thunderstorm, which will pass. At least the thunder is quite intense. And the temperature has gained all day. As I came to Poltava it was nearly 30 degrees.
Poltava battlefield is not much to see, but to feel the history. The have built up a nice little museum with some artifacts. But most copies from Swedish and Russian archives.
Defeat
One thing, which was interesting, was that the exhibition, naturally, pays more attention to Peter of Russia than Charles of Sweden. I mean the Russian won the battle. And here in eastern Ukraine people are more pro Russia than in the western part. There they are more proud of the Ukrainian history. As a matter of fact, we were allies in this battle against the Russian. That is, if you call the Cossacks Ukrainian. But I think you can. It has a nice touch to it. Being blue and yellow, as we both are.
Russian point of view.
The difference in how they look at Ukraine is easy to see as you drive, In the L’viv area I didn’t see any Russian symbols, like a flag or so. Only the Ukrainian flag hang proudly at every pole. Here, in the east, it’s always accompanied with the Russian one.
I just got the menu, all in Cyrillic. Oh, not everything, the drinks are in roman. But I don’t want that now. I’ll have to see if the waiter knows any English.
Short break – I’m talking to the waitress, it was a she.
That was exciting, she knew a little English. But we didn’t really understand each other. But I gave her a “free card” to bring me a small lunch. Let see what that will be.
A very Swedish corner.
Just as it began to rain a couple came up to my bike. It was a biker from Poltava.. Actually he is from Georgia, moved here and got married. I quote: “You can’t stay in celibacy in the Ukraine”. Constantin was very nice, we exchanged addresses and I will log on to their internet site later. Once again a bike is a door opener. Just like a dog when you walk in the park. His wife told me to take another way down, it should be better to drive.
Here comes the waitress, with a soup. (Tasting) Vegetables and sausages, spicy, I like.
They first 200 km were a smooth ride. They are constructing a highway and it was almost only new tarmac. Due to construction work speed limit was 70. But no one cares. It was easy to follow the flow at 100 to 110.
The last 100 km was a bumpy ride. I am glad my bike is high with a good suspension. I’m more worried to break my suspension the having a flat tire. I have tire repairs on the bike, but nothing for the suspension. But I trust it.
Second lunch
Oh, here she is again, with another dish – for me! Hmm, small lunch… Well it looks interesting. She says “cow” so I think its meat inside. (Tasting) Nice, not “fat” at all…
The rain is decreasing. I hope I can be on my way soon. I want to go to Zaporizhzhya. There this Cossack island lays. Hmm, garlic. And gräslök (I don’t know what’s in English – try Google translate from Swedish if you are curious). But the bread was dull.
So the rain has stopped. That is my q to get out of here. The stop was longer than I planned. But it is really no problem. It’s not getting dark before nine o’clock.
The waitress was also a good photographer, don’t you think?
The waitress came to get me a dessert as well, but I managed to stop that. Now I just have to pay. I wonder how much it will be?
Oh, dear! 46 Hryvnia. That is 40 SEK or about 5 €. I will not get poor here 🙂
An evening in Kiev
So I went out in the intention of se a bit of Kiev night life. But I just walked around for a while sniffing in he atmosphere. My hotel is not far from downtown and I needed a walk after a six hour drive. As usual I park my bike in front of the hotel so that the people working at the door will notice anything strange
.
Kiev down town is very much like any other capital in Europe. You will find all kind of stores and any brand. All imported stuff is about the same price as in Sweden. The shops are open much longer though, on a Saturday evening until ten.
One thing that I liked was that they close down the main street for cars. So this very broad boulevard turn into a pedestrian street. And with that the whole scene changes. Lots of street artists and people everywhere. Sadly, I must say, they reopen the street again already at ten. But I kind of liked the method, with water spraying cleaning trucks. Believe me, everyone jumped up to the side.
I stopped and listened to some artists. There were two singing in Ukrainian (or Russian I can’t tell the difference). I made some movies from that, sadly in a very poor quality.
In Kiev and all is well
As I drove to Kiev I had a lot of time to think. That’s quite obvious as I’m driving on my own. But I don’t have anything to write on so many things that I want to write about just disappear. I need to work on my memory 😉
Anyway, first of all, the weather is much better for driving then last year. I prefer some rain for the heat. I can protect myself from rain but not from heat. Today it was almost cool; I even had to put on an extra sweatshirt.
As Ukraine (still) is not a member of EU and also has no Euro as currency, could be a reason, that it’s very cheap here. And for Swedish people very easy to convert the currency because our currencies have almost the same value. So petrol is about nine kr/liter, about one €. Locally produced goods are extremely cheap, like clothing and shoes. Food, cigarettes and liquor also. Hotels are very affordable, I’m staying at a four star hotel in Kiev now for 550 kr/night. (appr. 60 €). Normally I find a nice hotel for half that price.
Away from the big cities the prices drops even more. That I look forward to, when I leave Kiev tomorrow.
Ukraine is trying to catch up on the road condition, many says it’s because of the Euro 2012 soccer championship. Today I experienced a nice road almost the whole way from L’viv. But the organization at the constructions sites were hard to understand. Suddenly I got a car coming towards me in my lane. And I don’t think I did anything wrong. I’m always driving correctly 😉
The police love their laser guns. But once again the Ukrainian drivers are very kind. I just have to watch out for flashing headlights coming towards me. It worked at least 5 times today, so no speeding tickets for me 😀
Yesterday I realized that they have organized how to get the waiters attention in almost a organized Swedish way. At least I think this could have been Sweden who introduced it. At lunch time I had a very fine apple cake. As I sat down I got a small bell. I felt like in the 19:th century, upstairs and downstairs.
This is were I got the bell. But the waiter couldn’t hear it becaouse of the rain.
In the evening, in a restaurant, they had an even more sophisticated thing. En electronic button on every table. Just press and wait.
Tonight Kiev is on, I’ve been here before so I try to find some new places. But I’ll have to go to the central place. I just love the stairs with the water pouring down. Last time I was here it was very much warmer and people were walking up and down. I’ll see how it is tonight.
Tomorrow, Swedish history. Poltava. One of the highlights of this tour. I’ve decided to go a bit faster down to Crimea so I won’t stay for the night in Poltava. I’ll be around lunchtime at the battlefield and the museum, but I’ll skip skip most of the town. I really want some heat now, and that I’ll hope to find further south.
I hope this will work, at least if I can start as planed tomorrow, quite early. I hope the traffic on a Sunday morning will be less hectic.
Another phone number
If you want to cheer me on you can also text me at +380631090064, my new Ukrainian number.
Last morning in L’viv
I’m just having breakfast at the hotel, planning my route for today. Yesterday I tried to see a bit of what L’viv offered in cultural attractions, but it rained quite much so I didn’t want to walk around too much.
I also went to a market and what strikes me here is that you can stop at a booth without being annoyed. It’s not like in US, Uk or at its worst Thailand. It’s all very calm and organized. I suppose it’s because the customers are local people.
I’m leaving for Kiev now. Today I got the sun so I hope I can enjoy the ride.
Getting around 